The Forbidden Kingdom of Nepal

You will stay at a Hotel at Fewa Lake. You can take boats to take you out onto the lake or wander around the town shopping for Tibetan or Nepalese items. Then we go by bus to Pokhara if the weather is unsuitable to fly.

The journey continues with a flight on a Twin Otter through the Kali Gandaki Valley, which has been an important trade route between Tibet and India for centuries. The valley is flanked by the towering peaks of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri, rising 5,000 meters above the valley floor. After landing in Jomsom, the group will trek to Kagbeni (2,810 meters) via Chhanche Lhumba, also known as Ekle Bhatti or the "Lonely Hotel." They will follow the river to reach Kagbeni, a lush oasis situated at the intersection of Jhong Khola and Kali Gandaki.

Muktinath (3,760 meters) holds great significance as a pilgrimage destination for both Hindus and Buddhists, and the monasteries of both religions coexist harmoniously. It is noteworthy that a fire burns in water beneath the Buddhist temple, which is managed by nuns. 

Following the visits to the monasteries, visitors can enjoy a speedy ride back down the trail to Kagbeni. After a satisfying meal, one can explore the town, engage in conversations with the locals while sitting on the street or pay a visit to the Kagbeni monastery.

As you embark on your journey to Mustang, you must first complete the necessary procedures to enter the national park. You will then travel up the valley, sometimes on the riverbed and other times along the river terraces. 

During your journey, you will stop in Tangbe village for lunch, where you can interact with the friendly local children and enjoy organic apples from a grassy orchard. 

From Tangbe, you will be treated to stunning views of Nilgiri Peak, which dominates the northern skyline. As you continue on your journey, you will pass through Chhusang, where you will see impressive cliffs and cave dwellings across the valley. Just beyond Chhusang, the trail will ascend steeply to Chele (3,050 meters) as you leave the Kali Gandaki valley behind.

The journey involves a gradual climb towards the Taklam La (Pass) at 3,736 meters. The route follows the "Cliff Road," a steep trail that has been carved into the side of the valley wall. Despite the challenging terrain, the horses perform exceptionally well, and it is only your own apprehension that prompts you to dismount and walk the steepest sections. 

After crossing the Taklam La, you pass by some Chortens in an arid, treeless landscape before reaching the town of Samar. Following a meal in Samar, the trail leads through a large gorge before ascending into another valley. You eventually descend to Syangboche (3,800 meters), a unique and peaceful spot where you can rest for the night.

Initially, you will climb gradually to a small pass with stunning views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. Then, you will descend into the Tama Khola (River) and travel above the town of Ghiling, where you will encounter lush and plentiful barley fields. After a short ascent onto the Nyi La (4,010 meters), you will be rewarded with views of Mustang and the larger peaks of Nilgiri and Annapurna.

As you traverse the high hills with a broad vista, you will eventually reach the Ghemi La, where you can look down into the village of Ghemi, your destination for the day. The yellow wheat and buckwheat fields flowering in pink provide a colorful contrast to the barren and eroded hills around. You will stay with the nephew of the King of Mustang and enjoy the relative comfort of his home. There is plenty to see around the town with the harvest in full swing and an active community in full production.

As you wake up, the sounds of the villagers going about their daily routine fill the air. Animals are taken out to feed and the streets are busy with goats and cattle. 

Crossing a narrow bridge over the Ghemi Khola, you climb a long slope that leads to a traverse into the Dhakmar Khola. The hills in this area are stunning, with beautiful pink and orange cliffs towering over lush green meadows. The village of Dhakmar is surrounded by fields of buckwheat blooms, offering a perfect opportunity for photographers. The village is small, but there are many ancient caves to explore, giving a glimpse into the lives of long lost inhabitants.

Today's journey involves crossing the highest pass on the trip, which requires a long climb from Dhakmar to Mui La at 4,170 meters. After admiring the stunning views, you descend into Lo Gekar and the Ghar Gompa, which is the world's first Buddhist monastery discovered by Buddhist saint Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche). You have the privilege of exploring this ancient structure and learning about Buddhism's history.

After enjoying a delicious lunch, you ride through an active harvest to reach Charang. Here, you stay in a large and comfortable lodge owned by the King's sister. After an extended tea session, you set up your tents on the rooftop, and as night falls, you can hear the villagers singing as they return from their fields.

A visit to the old fort in town in the early morning provides insight into the history of the area. The highlight of the fort is a room that contains the armory of a 5th century king, complete with battle regalia used to maintain control during that era. Amongst the weapons is a dried-up human hand. Legend has it that the builder of the Charang monastery had his hand chopped off by the king after completing the job to prevent him from building another like it, giving new meaning to the term "performance bonus."

Departing by mid-morning, the horses work up a sweat as you travel out from the river valley. The trail becomes a road, and you enjoy a solid canter with the wind in your hair. Finally, you reach a large open valley with green fields and occasional villages, including Lo Monthang (3,809 meters), the high walled home of the King of Mustang.

Entering the town, you revel in its medieval environment and imagine the security it must have provided during sieges over the ages. Inside the 5m high walls are houses, monasteries and shops, with the King's Palace in the center. After setting up tents outside the city walls, you meet with the King and his wife, presenting them with gifts. After half an hour, you leave feeling privileged and appreciative of their hospitality.

That evening, you dine with locals and engage in fascinating discussions about their worldly knowledge despite their remote location. 

After a light breakfast, you embark on horseback towards the lush meadows above town. After an hour and a half, you reach a cluster of yak-wool tents surrounded by yaks. The nomads have just finished milking their animals and are preparing their prized yak butter, considered a delicacy by locals. They invite you into one of the tents for yak butter tea, which is brewed over a yak-dung fire. Despite the presence of a solar panel powering a light on top of the tent, the nomads' way of life is a stark contrast to modernity. After conversing with the nomads through your guide, you make your way back down the valley towards Lo Manthang, feeling fulfilled from another unforgettable day.

As you prepare to depart from Lo Manthang, your local companions go out of their way to bid you a special farewell. You retrace your path to Charang for a midday meal before venturing into uncharted territory over the Charang La and down to Ghemi. You dismount and lead your horses down the hill, eventually coming upon the world's longest Mani wall, situated across from Ghemi. The nearby chortens offer stunning opportunities for capturing photos with the changing light and the Dhakmar cliffs in the background. After crossing the river back into Ghemi, you find yourself swept up in a lively harvest festival where the friendly locals encourage you to join them in traditional Sherpa dancing.

After enjoying lunch in Syangboche, you make your way down the Syangboche Khola, a gorge with steep walls towering hundreds of meters above you. Following a right turn in the trail, you arrive at Bhena Khola, an ancient cave where Guru Rinpoche meditated to achieve enlightenment. Today, a resident monk lives there and will kindly guide you through the cave, explaining the meaning behind the statues and sharing the cave's history. Inside the cave, you'll see a large stalagmite that looks out of place among the conglomerate rock. After leaving the cave, you climb out of the valley and reach Bhena La before descending and returning to Samar for the night.

The descent to the Kali Gandaki valley feels like a homecoming and in the early afternoon we stop to have a late lunch and set up camp at Chhusang. You can wander around the riverbed looking for saligrams, black rocks that when split reveal nautilus type fossils inside. This is a pleasant afternoon’s activity before retiring for the evening.

You make your way to Kagbeni without many stops and complete formalities at the Annapurna Conservation Committee office before stopping at Elko Bhatti for lunch. You fill out a questionnaire about your experiences and unanimously agree that restricted entry into Mustang is beneficial in protecting the culture from mass tourism, despite the premium cost. The horses seem to sense home is close by, and you quickly cover the miles back to Jomsom.

You celebrate your journey with the Sherpa crew as some are departing tomorrow. You share jokes and laughter in the evening, finding it hard to believe that the journey is nearly over. The team enjoys a late start and rides to Marpha, a pretty town one hour down the valley. The town's large flagstone streets and whitewashed buildings seem modern after your Mustang experience. You browse stores with new paperback books and enjoy a relaxed lunch before returning to Jomsom.

We take the first flight to Pokhara at 8:00 a.m. and then on to Kathmandu. It is so nice getting back to the modern hotel and going shopping or wandering around the town. 

This day is kept in case the flight is canceled or unable to operate.

Departure from Kathmandu.